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This is how the north of the island is sold. The tours that leave the paved coast road run up towards Rach Vem and Ganh Dau, usually taking in the starfish shallows, a bee farm and a stretch of red dirt track — and the kayaks and round basket boats belong to the same day rather than to the reefs in the south. It is the half of the island that most visitors never see, because the hotels and the boats are all at the other end.
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